The carvings on the headstones are discreet, almost invisible on the pure white marble.
The sculptures, paths and gravestones create a remarkably symmetrical whole. They are decorated with bronze dolphins and tortoises, symbolising rebirth and eternal life. Two fountains with descending basins splash on the green promenades between the graves. Depending on where you stand, the gravestones appear either aligned or offset. Some bear the Star of David, others a Christian cross. The steps to the monument are low, allowing me to comfortably gaze into the distance while walking. Inside, the ceiling features a magnificent, golden mosaic portraying the Holy Spirit in the shape of a peace dove. Impressive symmetryĪmidst the countless white marble headstones lies the chapel with its colossal red granite angel reaching into the sky. A few autumn leaves lie scattered around the crosses. The grass is frostbitten yet perfectly manicured. The huge black gate is adorned with a golden eagle and laurel wreaths, symbols of bravery in ancient times. Over 5,000 American soldiers were laid to rest here in Hamm. A lot of blood was shed in the Ardennes, especially during the winter months of 19. They are a reminder of the Battle of the Bulge fought during the last two years of the war: German soldiers fought against the Luxembourgish, Americans, French and British. Today, I’m going to visit memorial sites. I’m standing at the entrance to the American Military Cemetery in Hamm. On this November morning, the sun rises through a veil of clouds and bathes the entire landscape in a pink, milky light. Facing what these moments elicit and experiencing these settings for oneself is a worthwhile endeavour. Travelling to commemorate can be an intense experience, especially for a German who decides to visit several World War II memorials in one day.
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